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My
son Miles and I live in the Pacific Northwest where winters are cool,
wet and seemingly unending. With a little research I discovered
that Hawaii’s Big Island would offer us the sun and warmth we craved, as
well as some exciting recreation, for our
March spring break vacation.
Being
a budget-conscious single mother as well as an outdoors enthusiast, we
decided to camp out for the majority of our trip. I had never really
heard of anyone camping in Hawaii, but how hard could it be? Turns out
that camping in Hawaii is fairly easy and definitely worthwhile – so
long as you plan ahead and know where to go.
Like most vacationers, we flew into Hawaii’s tiny Kailua-Kona International Airport
on the dry side of the island. After getting our rental car, we drove
10 minutes south into Kailua-Kona to grab groceries, ice, and propane.
We then turned north again and headed to Hapuna Beach State Park about 35 minutes from Kailua on the South Kohala Coast.
Hapuna Beach State Park
maintains six primitive A-frame cabins for an unbeatable price of $20 a
night. Each cabin faces west providing outstanding ocean views. The
cabins have sleeping space for four (long wooden benches – bring your
sleeping bags and pads) as well as an indoor picnic table and electric
lights. Full bathroom and kitchen facilities are located a few yards
away.
Hapuna Beach was an excellent base for exploring the South Kohala Coast and the Big Island’s finest beaches. Since Miles was only five, we sought beaches with gentle surf.
Our favorite was Mauna Kea Beach.
In Hawaii, all beaches are public property, although some entrances are
privately owned. At Mauna Kea, we drove to the resort entrance,
declared that we’d only be visiting for the day, and the attendant kindly gave us a parking pass and wished us an enjoyable visit.
Mauna
Kea Beach large and roomy –making it easy to escape the small crowd
huddled down at the resort end of the beach. The setting is also
spectacular: smooth white sand, clear turquoise water and several trees
for shade should you tire of the sun. (The Mauna Kea Resort has been
closed due to earthquake damage, the beach is open.)
Sorry
to leave the South Kohala area (four nights at Hapuna Beach State Park
would be perfect), we next ventured an hour east over the mountains to
the Hamakua Coast. We were now on the wet side of the island
and the change was dramatic: instead of barren lava and dry grass, we
found the landscape lush and green.
Soon Miles and I arriv
ed at Kalopa Recreation Area
to find we had the pretty campground all to ourselves. After quickly
setting up our tent, we explored the grounds to find a 3/4-mile native
forest trail dominated by ohia trees and towering tree ferns. We also
peeked at the accommodations – six large cabins perfect for large
families or group gatherings.
The next morning Miles and I took a short drive over to the Waipi’o Valley.
Known as the Valley of the Kings, Waipi’o is considered a sacred valley
and birthplace of Hawaiian civilization. The valley, one mile wide at
the coast and six miles deep, plummets more than 2000 feet from its
surrounding cliffs. The sheer cliffs and abundant rainfall have given
rise to a lush, verdant valley rimmed with numerous waterfalls. On our
hike down we saw taro patches, tropical fruit tree orchards, and tame,
wild horses that were very interested in our peanut butter sandwiches.
It took about an hour to hike all the way down to the black sand beach.
Soon after our arrival the sky darkened, heavy winds kicked up and
enormous waves pounded the shore.
It
was that afternoon that the wet side of the island lived up to its
name. By the time Miles and I hiked all the wa
y out of Waipi’o Valley
and back to our car we were soaked, though exhilarated from the
adventure. The elation passed however when we returned to our campsite
to discover that I’d left the tent flaps open. After packing up our
very soggy tent Miles asked, “Can we go back to the dry side now, Mom?”
Agreeing
with my son that sun was preferable to rain, we left the Hamakua Coast,
drove southeast around the island – stopping briefly at a laundromat in
Hilo to dry our soggy gear – and reached Hawaii Volcanoes National Park two days ahead of schedule. The friendly kiosk attendant informed us that Kulanaokuaiki Campground
tended to be a bit drier than the closer, more popular campground.
Without hesitation, we headed for Kulanaokuaiki, with our fingers
crossed for sun.
We were not disappointed. Not only did it stop raining once we reached Kulanaokuaiki, but the peaceful campground had beautiful scenery including Mauna Loa, the world’s most massive volcano, as a backdrop. It also ended up being the more centrally located of the two campgrounds for exploring the park.
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