The Big Island of Hawaii

My son Miles and I live in the Pacific Northwest where winters are cool, wet and seemingly unending. With a little research I discovered thatHawaii’s Big Island would offer us the sun and warmth we craved, as well as some exciting re-creation, for our March spring break vacation.

The island of Hawaii, called the Big Island, is five times the size of the next largest island of Maui, yet contains only 13% of the state’s population. Rather than ritzy resorts, high rises and packed beaches, the Big Island is better characterized by its rural character and unhurried pace. It’s a great place to go if you seek adventure mixed with ample doses of peace and quiet.

Being a budget-conscious single mother as well as an outdoors enthusiast, we decided to camp out for the majority of our trip. I had never really heard of anyone camping in Hawaii, but how hard could it be? Turns out that camping in Hawaii is fairly easy and definitely worthwhile – so long as you plan ahead and know where to go.

Like most vacationers, we flew into Hawaii’s tiny Kailua-Kona International Airport on the dry side of the island. After getting our rental car, we drove 10 minutes south into Kailua-Kona to grab groceries, ice, and propane. We then turned north again and headed to Hapuna Beach State Park about 35 minutes from Kailua on the South Kohala Coast.

Hapuna Beach State Park maintains six primitive A-frame cabins for an unbeatable price of $20 a night. Each cabin faces west providing outstanding ocean views. The cabins have sleeping space for four (long wooden benches – bring your sleeping bags and pads) as well as an indoor picnic table and electric lights. Full bathroom and kitchen facilities are located a few yards away.

Hapuna Beach was an excellent base for exploring the South Kohala Coast and the Big Island’s finest beaches. Since Miles was only five, we sought beaches with gentle surf.

Our favorite was Mauna Kea Beach. In Hawaii, all beaches are public property, although some entrances are privately owned. At Mauna Kea, we drove to the resort entrance, declared that we’d only be visiting for the day, and the attendant kindly gave us a parking pass and wished us an enjoyable visit.

Mauna Kea Beach large and roomy –making it easy to escape the small crowd huddled down at the resort end of the beach. The setting is also spectacular: smooth white sand, clear turquoise water and several trees for shade should you tire of the sun. (The Mauna Kea Resort has been closed due to earthquake damage, the beach is open.)

Sorry to leave the South Kohala area (four nights at Hapuna Beach State Park would be perfect), we next ventured an hour east over the mountains to the Hamakua Coast. We were now on the wet side of the island and the change was dramatic: instead of barren lava and dry grass, we found the landscape lush and green.

Soon Miles and I arrived at Kalopa Recreation Area to find we had the pretty campground all to ourselves. After quickly setting up our tent, we explored the grounds to find a 3/4-mile native forest trail dominated by ohia trees and towering tree ferns. We also peeked at the accommodations – six large cabins perfect for large families or group gatherings.

The next morning Miles and I took a short drive over to the Waipi’o Valley. Known as the Valley of the Kings, Waipi’o is considered a sacred valley and birthplace of Hawaiian civilization. The valley, one mile wide at the coast and six miles deep, plummets more than 2000 feet from its surrounding cliffs. The sheer cliffs and abundant rainfall have given rise to a lush, verdant valley rimmed with numerous waterfalls. On our hike down we saw taro patches, tropical fruit tree orchards, and tame, wild horses that were very interested in our peanut butter sandwiches. It took about an hour to hike all the way down to the black sand beach. Soon after our arrival the sky darkened, heavy winds kicked up and enormous waves pounded the shore.

It was that afternoon that the wet side of the island lived up to its name. By the time Miles and I hiked all the way out of Waipi’o Valley and back to our car we were soaked, though exhilarated from the adventure. The elation passed however when we returned to our campsite to discover that I’d left the tent flaps open. After packing up our very soggy tent Miles asked, “Can we go back to the dry side now, Mom?”

Agreeing with my son that sun was preferable to rain, we left the Hamakua Coast, drove southeast around the island – stopping briefly at a laundromat in Hilo to dry our soggy gear – and reached Hawaii Volcanoes National Park two days ahead of schedule. The friendly kiosk attendant informed us that Kulanaokuaiki Campground tended to be a bit drier than the closer, more popular campground. Without hesitation, we headed for Kulanaokuaiki, with our fingers crossed for sun.

We were not disappointed. Not only did it stop raining once we reached Kulanaokuaiki, but the peaceful campground had beautiful scenery including Mauna Loa, the world’s most massive volcano, as a backdrop. It also ended up being the more centrally located of the two campgrounds for exploring the park.

Volcanoes National Park is a place everyone should see in your lifetime. The diversity of the park is astounding: tropical tree fern forests, dry stark desert, black lava fields that seem to go on forever, dramatic ocean cliffs and views, and majestic Mauna Loa rising nearly 14,000 feet above sea level. On our visit Miles and I explored giant craters, lava tubes, and steam vents, and we also took several short hikes. But by far the highlight of our visit was our encounter with Kilauea.

Kilauea is Hawaii’s only volcano that is presently active. (Mauna Loa is also considered an active volcano but has not erupted since 1984.) Kilauea is continually releasing lava that slowly meanders downhill toward the ocean. To get to the lava, you drive all the way down the Chain of Craters Road to the southern tip of the National Park. From there it’s an arduous 2.5-mile hike over craggy black lava fields (bring lots of water and sunscreen!).

Although a little hard going for my 5-year-old son Miles, the hike was well worth the effort. Seeing that red, hot oozing lava and feeling its radiant heat was breathtaking and unforgettable.

As if seeing the flowing lava wasn’t enough, we were rewarded again once we hiked back to the trailhead. Now being dusk we were able to see what had been disguised by sunlight earlier: the broad mountainside above us glowed with molten lava that slowly streamed down its sides. It was a bit like watching a large forest fire only more awe-inspiring and less threatening.

After two nights at Volcanoes National Park, we continued our clockwise journey around the island and stayed our last four nights in the South Kona region. We checked out a few public campgrounds on the way, but they seemed dingy and uninviting. We ended up opting for the Manago Hotel in Captain Cook. This 1917 building, while a little run-down, had a lot of character, and our water-view room with balcony was only $50 per night.

Miles and I found Captain Cook an excellent base for the remainder of our Big Island trip. The region is popular for two reasons: snorkeling and kayaking. For snorkeling, we found two spots well suited for young children, Kahalu’u Beach and Ke’ei Beach. Both beaches have sheltered waters and shallow coral reefs teeming with tropical fish and green sea turtles. My 5-year-old and I snorkeled for hours each day and had fun snapping pictures with our underwater disposable camera. Not having experience, we skipped the kayaking opportunities but made a mental note for future visits.
Overall our 10-day trip to the Big Island was marvelously pleasant and fun. I highly recommend roughing it in lieu of hitting the spendy resorts. While some of the campgrounds on the island are a bit seedy, the ones mentioned in this article are great. Taking a more low-key approach with your accommodations has the double advantage of saving you money as well as allowing you to feel more like a local than a tourist.

Recommended Camping & Cabins:

Hapuna Beach State Park
(South Kohala Coast)
Six A-frame shelters only. Primitive and shared restrooms and showers. Across the road from the beach.
http://www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/hawaii.html
808-587-0300

Kalopa State Recreation Area
(Hamakua Coast)
2000 feet elevation. Cabins and campsites for tents. Day picnicking and easy nature hikes
including a 2-mile horse loop trail.
http://www.hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/hawaii.html
808-587-0300

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
(Kilauea Volcano)
Two campgrounds, Namakani Paio (located off Highway 11), and Kulanaokuaiki (located off Hilina Pali Road), free with paid entry into the park. Reservations, permits, and check-ins are not required.
http://www.hawaii.volcanoes.nationalpark.com/camping.html
808-587-0300

Hawaii State: Dept. of Natural Land & Resources
http://www.hawaii.volcanoes.nationalpark.com/camping.html
808-587-0300

Hawaii County: Parks and Recreation
http://www.hawaiicounty.com/parks/parks.html
808-961-8311

--Kimberly J. Davis